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DIVISIONAL 



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E X A C T M E A S U R E AI E N T 



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BY 



AV. () . L I X T II I C U M , 



[Editor cf Linthicum's Journal of Fashions,] 



lf4 PIl^VM ATMMHll^ MHW T#»K. 



Containing twenty-seven JDiagramn, explmncitorij of both 
Systems, and aeconipanieii by a Jiule^r, wHth nine special 
diwisions adapted for JDrafting bij the JDivislonoil System,, and 
giving explicit directio)is for Measuring, JBrafling, &c. 



i\tw Hlovk : 

MoKOAN, Comes & Lawiiekck, Stati<im:hs anj) Pui.mkks, No. !) Maiukn Lank. 

1872. 



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INTRODUCTORY TO 



M % %<?^' mm i^j m ipji im mm » (^ v£[^| ■»■>>» tmi mm im mw mi 



OE mmww'Emm^ 



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When uiiilcrtakini;' tlic ihities devdlviiiL;' 
ujioii an Editoi- of Fasliions, it rfi'taiiily 
was not my intention to eonie before the 
Tailoring Trade in vet anotlier ])osition, 
that of an oriiiinator and jmlilislier of a 
system or systems for 1 )raftinL:-. I not only 
e.\j)eeted, luit expressed a determination to 
eontlne myself within journalistic limits, 
and not \rse its privileges for jjromulsxa- 
tiny- an\' speeial system, preferriiiL:' a more 
general hasis for the ideas I miuiit have 
occasion to ventilate, from time to time. 

To me it ap])eai'ed tliat a journal's use- 
fulness was greatly restricted l>y lieing 
hampered with set tlieories that might 
not admit of extension oi' liear the contact 
of antagonistic sentiments ; hence the desire 
on my j>art, while keeping m\' journal 
within its proper boundaries, to have it so 
fai- uncontrolled as to leave freedom for 



active thought and honest expression, re- 
gai'ding all matters coming within its range. 
Tile al)ove reasons aj)])eared all sufficient 
to deter me from advancing my own 
])eculiai' metho(! of Drafting, and only the 
constanth' increasing demand for my mode 
of Cutting, and the urgent entreaties of 
nian\' mendiers of tiie Trade for my system, 
caused metoviewthe subject in a ditJ'erent 
light, and realize that it wotdd not neces- 
sariU' turn my journal into an oi'gan of 
self advertisement, if I concluded to j)ulilish 
my system. Most assiuvdly I could not, 
without great detriment to other tluties, 
spare time to answer the numerous mis- 
sives I received, re(| nesting special instruc- 
tion I'effarding niv method of Drafting:-, and 
upon consideration, I deemed that justice 
to the manv seekers of information and 
myself reipiired the issuing of the present 



L I N T 11 1 C U M ' S S ^' S T E M S . 



A\'oi'k Dii Gariiieiit Cutting. Long exi)ei'ienee 
has taught nic tlie vahu' of a simple and 
correct system foi- ])rat'ting Garments ; and 
the necessity I felt for such a system, and 
my eagerness to take long strides on the 
road to improvement, s])urivd me to diligent 
lahor. and after long and most careful 
testing, I can pronounce the success of the 
result of my efforts as being beyond even 
my own most sanguine expectations. If I 
wassim[)ly a Tailor by theory, a theoivtical 
system might answer my j)urpose and serve 
as a pulilication, ])ro\ided the publishing 
of a s\'stem \\as my oidy aim. 

But I am essentially a practical Tailor, 
and most zealously have practised my sys- 
tem, and made it eai'n its right to claim 
from others the high (-ncomiums I bestoAV 
upon it. What I have stateil lictbre, may 
here liear repetition. By years of exj)e- 
rience aii<l stud}, T have gained a not 
unenviable re|Mitation as a Cutter ; audit 
has e\ cr been, and is now , a souive of ju'ide 
with me to justly merit it. Hence, in pre- 
])ai'iiig my systems, I have stinted neither 
time nor means to ln'ing them to successful 
completion, and arrixc at the point I ha\e 
r(\-i<-lied, as 1 di-sire these ]iublii-atious to 
add to, instead of detracting from, the 



estimation many have ])lace<l on my ability. 
"What is ^\'orth doing at all, is worth 
doing well," and as merit only can olitain 
and stistain a jxisition of worth and ])romi- 
nence, it has lieen my etlbit to make the 
merits of my systems so percejjtible t<i the 
minds <if all that experiment with them, 
that they cannot fail to receive due ap])re- 
ciation. It is impossible for every one to 
thiid< alike. If they did, the sameness in 
life would lie unendurable, and competition 
unknown. In Tailoring, as in every thing 
else, the opinions aitd systems are Avorth 
nni.st that can best be substantiated by able 
tests. That the inventorof a jiractical theory 
should lie biased in its iavor is natural. It is 
the offspring of his brain, over w hich he has 
toiled uncomplainingly, to make it jirove 
worthy of him. When it is entrusted to the 
colder ciiticisms of others, he watches it 
anxiously, eager that it clearly demonstrates 
to the discriminate investigatoi' the benefits 
he so clearly sees, underlyingits principles, 
and o\ci' each con\'ert it makes, feels re]>aid 
for every weary hour past in its invention. 
?]\"ery ANoi-k can lie pro]ielled intoiMitice 
by loud ])ufhng; but it is geiuiine w<irth 
alone, that can conmiand fixed attention. 
The reason that so nmnv svstems float for 



a time on tlie market, ami then sink to 
obseurity, is that, as a ^-eneral thin^', they 
owe tlieir (>ri<;'in to tlieory only. 

Some ])ei'soii tliinks he lias touml tlie 
phih)so[)her's stone, un<l made seienee ie\eal 
its treasured seerets. 

He at om-e liastily illustrates, to his own 
satisfaetion, his ideas, and a system is sent 
forth to the ti'ade. It a])j>eai-s (lesiral)le, 
and j)urehasers are numerous; Imt it don't 
realize their antieipations, so they lie<iin to 
alter here, and chaiiiie theie, in the vain 
hope of making;- it satisfaetorily supply 
their I'equirt^ments. The eause of the 
defeets, and the non-discovery of them l>y 
the desii^'uei-, lies in the faet of his laek of 
op])ortunity f )r testing his system as thor- 
oughly and under as varied eiicumstances 
as a practising Tailor. All the faults that 
appeared to the inventor's eyes, he jirovided 
a theory to rectify; hut he could not 
imagine all the trials it would he su))jected 
to, and therefore, don't comprehend its 
failures. It stands to reason that a Tailor, 
successfully doing husiness, ])i'(iduring a 
system, has facilities foi' thoroughly testing 
and piM'fecting, that only others situateil 
like himself can avail themselves of; and 
it is this very point I consider a good 



foundation for the confidence I have in the 
systems I now place liefore the tiade. 
They have past through seasons of trial, 
and came out victorious. The\ ha\'e lieeu 
sulijected to every possilile contingency, 
l)Ut l)eyon<l everything I ever tried, have 
met the wants of my husiness. With 
accuracy, I have acc(>mj)lished my pui-]>ose, 
and endiodied my views for general use. 
Upon my work I have set a vahu', lieliev- 
ing it will rejiay its cost to the purchaser 
ten fold. Some ])ei"sons are ne\"ei- ojx^n to 
conviction, and always dread a tui'U otl' 
from the heateii track. 

Bacon says, "that surely every medicine 
is an iniiox'atiou, ami he that will no! a]i])ly 
new remedies nurst e.xpect new e\ils, for 
time is the great innovator; and if timt% of 
course, alter things to the worse, and wis- 
dom and counsel shall not altei' them to 
the hetter, what shall lie the end ^" 

"Time don't stand still, hut coiiti-ai-iwise, 
moveth so ai'ound that a froward retention 
of custom is a tiirliulent thing."' 

"And tlie\ that re\ei'ence too much old 
times, are l)iit a scorn to the new." 

How far my sentiments agree with the 
above i|notations, I will leaxc my readers 
to judge. 



LINTHirTM'S SYSTEMS. 



Ill ii-fcreiifc to my systems, I have frankly 
made assertions and y-iven my exi»erienc'e. 
Those who have not confidence in them, are 
not comjxdled to expci'iment in either. 
( )ne thinu' I am sure, 

Roth the systt'ius that I've made, 
111 the balance can be weighed ; 

And (I say it withimt vaunting,) 

Thev neither will be found wanting. 

W. O. LINTHICUM. 



ffil4illlli. 

In order to cut a oood Garment, it 
is essentially necessary that a coi'rect 
measure lie olitaiiHMl; and my mode of 
measurini;' is so very simple, that it is hardly 
jxissililf to commit an error, if ordinary 
care lie oliscrvcih Take all the measures 
over a Coat of tlic usual cloth thickness, 
except the lireast and waist, wliicli must 
be taken o\(^r the ^'est. Be particular and 



see that the Coat is not excessively stuffed 
with wadding, or the measures ol.taiiied 
■will lie too large. 

It is ail excellent plan to make nnlined 
Coats, or long clo.se fitting Jackets with 
sleeves, from elastic o-odds of niedinm 
weight, and kee]) on hand thix'e or four 
difierent sizes to ]»ut on customers when 
they are to l)e measui'ed. 

A trial of the above will result in the 
measures taken being more uniformly 
accurate, and the cost of tlie Garments ke])t 
for the pr;rpose of taking them, ])aid in a 
few weeks by tlie saving in alterations. 
Take as i'ew measures as ])ossible; and I 
advise all new lieginners to practise meas- 
uring many times before attem])ting to 
Draft. They will thus acipiire aliility, and 
form the habit of taking measures with 
ease and correctness, theivby slio\ving 
familiarity with the matter in h;ind. 
Hesitancy and awkwardness, where they 
exist, lease an impression of iucomjietency 
1)11 the minds of customers. Always take 
tlie measures in tlie same order, thus avoid- 
ing omissions and annoyance to customei's, 
in having to phu-e them in the same 
position more than once. The aliove sug- 
irestioiis will not be injurious to some 



LI XTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



Cutters I have met, wlio aiv well adv aiieed 
in the art of Cuttiiii;'. 



i^® W'i"fMi^iM^l By it® S3 9 

First, liave the Coat liuttoiied on the 
person to lie nieasure<l, see that it is well 
11]) under the arms, ami that the liaek seam 
is in the eeutre of the Uody. then proreed 
to take the length of waist, say ISA inehes. 
and full leno-th, ."U inehes, starting trom 
the eollar seam, or where it is intended to 
l)e. Then from the same place, liring the 
measuring tape down in tVont of the I'ight 
arm, under it and uj) the liaek to the start- 
ing ])oint, drawing the tajie moderately 
tio'ht, and o-et wdnit is eonunoid\ known 
as the first shoulder measure, say '27 inches. 
While the inch tape is in ])osition under 
the ai'm, di'aw it with the same degree of 
tightness across the blade to the centre of 
the 1>ack, say 28 inches, (ta.\ the mind for 
a moment with this measure, Imt (hi not 
wi'ite it down,) then I'everse tlie tape and 
start from the centre of the liack.and diaw 
it across the Made and und<'r the arm to 
the front uf scve. Before writing down 
the distance, continue the ta[)e up in front 



of the shoulder to the original starting 
jiuint at the liack of the neck, and see that 
it is -j;5 inches as first taken, and then write 
down the distance ti-oni the centre of the 
hack to the front <if the scye, (say IH 
inches, and the whole length 28 inches). 
It is w(dl here to impress the mind of the 
student with the impoitance of this last 
measure. It is the only one taken that is 
ap])lied diicctlv to the Dralt, as taken on 
the liody. It is very sinqile and easily 
taken, and will coi-rectlv in<licate the ])osi- 
tion of the cu>-t<imei-, whethei-ei'ect, medium 
or stoojiiug. 

The special measures given aliove are for 
the me<linm sized average form. Should 
the customer lie eivct, and his shoulders 
inclined liack. the distance from thecentre of 
the liack t<i the front of the scye, would he 
les^than half of the wlnde Made measure, 
say 1 1 inches, and the full length still lie -i:'. 
inches, thus diminishing the (pnmtity of 
chith on the Made half an inch, and adding 
that t|uantity to the length of the shouhler : 
and should the customer possess a stooping 
firm, the distance from the centre of the 
hack to the front of the scye will lie greater 
than half of the Made mea-ure, say 12 
inches, increasing the ipiantity acio>s the 



])];i'l(' Ii.ilf .III iiK-li, ami ilcci-easiiiir the 
k-iiglli of the sliouldt!]-. To iiisuiv t-orrect- 
iicss, jihv.'iys talcc this measure twice, as 
alio\c (lii-ci-tci| ; fii-sl, tVuiii tlic iii'ck down 
ill front of thf arm to tlie centre of l)ack, 
ami rcmcml)cr the (|iiantit\'; tlien reverse 
till- 1a|ic, ami if the distance from the 
cciitiv of tile liack to till- front of the scye 
is not lialf till- <|Uantity first taken, scan tlie 
customer closely from a side view, and there 
will l»c no ditliciiltv in licciding whether or 
not lii> foiiii iiistitie.s tlie variations on the 
measure. 

The leiiizth of the sleeve take in the usual 
way, from the (cntre of the liack, lietween 
the shoulders to (heelliow, I'DJ, inches^ and 
to the waist, '■'<-2 inches, the arm lieinii; elc- 
\ated, and the idliow plaeeil in as straight 
a line as possible with the surface of the 
hack. if it is too far forward, the 
measure taken will lie too loni;', ami if too 
far hack, it will lie t<io short. 

liy testiui;' the al)Ove, it will lie foiiml a 
very eas\' matter t<i commit an eri'or of 
from one to iwn inches in tin; leiitrth of 
slee\(', and [imlialily account for the 
numerous alterations that ha\'e to lie imide 
in this ]>articular. Next, take tlie breast 
and waist measures over the \'est, sav .''6 



hreast, and 81 waist. The measures so far 
taken will read ]»i, :;4, i'7, 1 U, l\S, -iOi. 
32, 8(), 31. For a Sack Coat, the measures 
would lie [irecisely the same, except the 
lengtli, which, for a medium height, would 
be 30 inches. For a Vest, in addition to the 
sliouhler, blade, breast and ^vaist measures 
already taken, start from socketdione, 
and t;ike a measure fur the o])ening in 
front, full length, and to the Indlow of- the 
waist at tlie side, just above the hip-bone. 
Til ere is no o-ood reason wliv a Coat 
should be cut liy one system, and a Vest, 
for the same customer, l)y another, entirely 
different in its application and results. 
When the form of a customer varies from 
the general average (as described above in 
directions for taking measures), the system 
here published for cutting Vests will lie 
aj)[)reciated, as it jiroduces the exact foi'm 
indicated liv the measures. 



First, take outside length from ttip of 
the hip-bone to the kiiee, say 'J 4 inches ; 
continue to within one inch of the iloor, 
say 4'2 inches. Next, the insidi^ seam, from 



LT XTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS. 



the c-iotch to within one inch of the floor, 
3'2 inches. (ThifJ measiuv sliould l)e taken 
\x\ih a square or wooih'U instrument, made 
for the ])ur])ost', \vitli tajie attached, and 
sold hy all Trimming houses.) Next, the 
Avaist measure, od inches, and the hip (taken 
over the largest part) .'W; inches, knee 17, 
and bottom, 17 inches. The whole measure 
so taken will read -24, 42, :V2, .'iO, ;;(). 17, 
an<l 17. 



The tine Wooden Kuler accomjianying 
this work, contains all the Divisions used 
in Drafting Coats and Vests, and are desig- 
nated as follows : Divisions of the slioulder 
measure are represented l>y letters A, B, C, 
D and E; the sizes ranging from is to 
36. Divisions of the waist, liy letter F; 
sizes ranging from 22 to 50. Divisions of 
the breast, by letters G, H, I and J ; the sizes 
ranging from 24 to 48 ; and the Division 
of the scye measure, l)y letters K, L and M ; 
the sizes ranging from 11 to 22. The 
Ruler is always placed in a jiosition which 
presents the figures of the i)aiticular 
Division being used perpendicular tt> the 
eye ; for example : when A and B are 
to be used, place the edge of the Ruler 



along the line A, with the end mark thus * 
resting at O, and mark on Divisions A and 
B the figui'e corresjiondiug to the shoulder 
measure ; and in using Divisions H and .1, 
the end marked f will be toward the 
operator, in order to have the figures per- 
l)endicular to the eye, and so continue 
chano'ino-. 

In addition to tlie above Divisions for 
all Coats and Vests, the Ruler contains 
thirds, tburths, inches, and a table showing 
the proportionate shoiddei' tor every breast. 



Diagram No. 1 (on Plate 1 ) slio\\s the 
student how to Draft a Frock or Dress Coat 
bv the measure he aliove learned how to 
take, and which reads as tVdlows: Lfugth 
of waist, ISi, full length, ;i4 ; shoulder, 27 ; 
blade (from the centre of back to front of 
scye) IH, confimieil to tlie hack of neck, 23 ; 
elbow (from the centre of back) 20^, full 
length of sleeve, 32; breast, 3(; ; waist, 31. 
First, diaw base line A, ])lace the end of 
the Ruler marked thus * at O, and niaik 
at 1 and 2 the shoulder measure, 27, on 
Divisions A and B. 



Fi'ora (J to o, is lialf of the breast measure, 
is iiK'lies. Draw lines B, C and D, at 
right angles Avdth line A. 

_ From 1 to 4, on line B, mark Sfi on 
Division G, l)y ])lacing.the sign [ (piypcmte 
30 in Dividon H), at 1. 

From 2 to 5, ou line C, mark 3(i on 
Division H, l)y placing the end ot* Rulei', 
marked thus f , at '2. 

From 5 to 6, mark 36 on Division I, Ly 
moving the Ruler a little forward from 
tlie last ])osition, until the sign [ (opjjosite 
30 i/i Division If,) is at 5. 

From .". to 7, mark 31 (^ waist) ou Division 
F, l)y ]ilaeing sign | | {inarhed hody Coats 
and TW.S'), at 3. Draw line E, from 7 to 
S, through ."), and line F, from 5 to O. 

From 2 to 5, a|>])lythe l)lade measure as 
taken on the l)ody from the centre of l)ack 
to front of the scye, llA. Hold the ta])e 
at .") and continue the measure up line E, 
from 5 to <S, 23 inches, adding one-fourth 
or three-eighths of an inch as an allowance 
for seams, jiadding, ttc. Draw line G 
from S to O. Now form slxmlder and side 
seams of the hack, as shown in the Diagram. 
Cut the hack, and place it in position to 
form the shoulder, l»y placing line F on 
tlie l)ack, directly on line (r, and form the 



shoulder and neck gorge, the holhnv ]>art 
of the latter always touching line E, at 14. 

From 8 to 13, mark 27 on Division C, 
by ])laciug the end of the Ruler, marked 
thus §, at 8, and draw line fn^m 13 tor the 
pitch of the neck. To form the top of 
side body, jdace the back in the position 
from which it was cut, and place the finger 
on line C, where the back and side T)ody 
join, and move the to]) in, (as shown in 
Diagram No. 9, on Plate 3) until the dis- 
tance between the points O O, along the 
dotted line, is about the same as between 
B B (<ir from 2 to 5 in Diagram No. 1). 
A half-incli cither way would lie unun- 
portant. Form the side seam and the scye. 
Apply the waist measure trom 3, allowing 
for the fpnmtity taken out at the side body, 
and complete the foiiii of the body, as 
shown in the Diagram, to suit taste or 
Fashion. 

It will be unnecessary to api)ly the 
shoulder or breast measure to the Draft, as 
the Rulei- will ]iroduce them correctly in 
all cases. 

Before attempting to Draft the sleeve or 
any other part of the Garment, the opera- 
tor should practice this Draft, until he is 
perfectly familiar \\\\\\ the Ruler and 



Plate, 1 




L I N T H I C U M ' S S Y S T E iM S . 



11 



Divisions, and can prtuluci' it coiTt'ctly 
from iut'Uiory, witli'Hit ivfercnce to the 
aljove (liret'tions. The sleeve is Drafted in 
the position in wliicli it is sewed to the 
bod}-, and is Drafted to tit tlie soye, pro- 
dneing' the correct lengtli of back and fore- 
arm seam. 



First, measure the scye carefully, which 
in the size under consideration, will be Hi 
iuclies, (this should be done before the 
fore-part is cut.) Place a i)iece of paper 
large enough to shape the slee\ e under the 
Draft, and place the back in its original 
position. Draw line II at right angles 
with Hue C. Turn the Ruler over and 
place j, II at 5 paralhd with line (_', and 
mark frtmi 5 to K, IG on Division K. 
Place I II at 5, parallel with line F, and 
from 5 to 10, mark 16 on Division L, and 10 
on Division M, at li*. From 10 to 11, mark 
16 on Division L, by placing sign [ || at 
10, and tbrm the sleeve head as laid down in 
Diagram No. 1. The top of the sleeve at 12 
must always touch line F, an^l the fore-arm 
seam at U be raised half an inch above line 



C. Use lead or hard chalk for forming the 
sleeve ; and by a slight pressure, the lines 
of the sleeve will be indented on the])aper 
})laced under the Draft. If the operator 
j)refers to Draft the sleeve separate from 
the l)ody, he can do so by studying Dia- 
gram No. •}, and Drafting as follows: Draw 
line A, (from O to 1, is the same distance 
as O to 2 in Diagram No. 1.) Draw line 
B at right angles with line A, (from 1 to 2, 
is the same distance as from 2 to 5 in 
Diagram No. 1.) Draw lines F and C. 
From 2 to •"), mark 16 on Division K, 1iv 
[)lacing sign [ [| at 2. From 2 to 4, niai'k lii 
on Division L, and li) on Division M, at .">. 
From 4 to C, m;!rk 1C> on Division L, b\- 
placing sign J, || on 4. Form the remainder 
of the slee\e as laid down in Diagram No. 
2. Tile hollow of the under sleeve at top, 
should not extend Indow lines F and P. 



f® Piafi B^iil f@i © 1*^1®®^, 



^i^^igjj 



Draw line A, (see Diagram No. .'5 on 
Plate 1.) Lay the corner of the s(piare at 
O, and raise the long arm until the 12 inch 
arm is one inch trom line A, (as slio\\ n by 
dotted lines at C, ) and draw line B. Then 



place the side l)od}' in jjosition as shown, 
and form the plait to suit the curve of the 
side seam and the customer's hips. It is 
desirable that the .skirt of a Fi'ock Coat 
hang as close to the thighs as possil)le, and 
in order to produce that result, the top of 
the skirt should l>e cut nearly oi' quite 
straight. A little round will l>e advan- 
tageous when the hips of the customer are 
a1»ove the average size. One inch fullness 
at least should l>e seweil in the "waist seam 
over the hijis, and carefully pressed out. 






SjEJE jDIAGMAM 4. 

Form lines A and B, as in Diagram No. 3. 
That which is front in the Frock Coat, 
becomes })lait iu the Dress and Morning 
Coat skirt. Form the plait line D, com- 
mencing one inch from O on line B, to suit 
the curve of the side seam, etc., and adapt 
the front of the skirt to the front of the 
forc-])art. 

Tilt' measures and their applications deal 
thus far \vitli a ^vell jiroportioned form of 
medium size and height, and to this extent, 



many of the Division Systems published 
are equal to mine ; but in most of them, 
the pupil is here left with a few vague 
directions for leus^thenino- or shortening the 
back, or changing the location of the 
shoulder point, &(:•., to conform to equally 
vague and uncertain measures taken fi-om 
imaginary starting points, in themselves 
unreliable and impracticable. 

In preparing this System foi' publication, 
it has l)een my aim to perfect it to such a 
degree that it will be quite as easy to 
Draft a good fitting Garment for an ill- 
shaped customer, as for one possessing the 
])roportions of a perfect model. The 
Cutter's task would be an easy one, if all 
his customers conformed in .sha])e to 
the above measures; Imt unfortunately, 
the great majority of them deviate 
from it. It is a A'ery common thing 
to find a man measuring proportionally 
the same in breast, waist and shoulder 
(as described and illusti'ated by Diagram 
No. 1 on Plate 1), who will stoop 
f >rwa]tl, and retpiire a greater c|uantity of 
cloth across the blade and a shorter 
shouldei', or, on account of extra erectness, 
require less cloth on the blade and a longer 
shoulder. The following measures taken, 



FicUe, 




LINTHICUM 


S SYSTEMS. 13 


as described, indicate tlie tliree forms 


No-\v apply the l)lade measure fi-om 2 to 


mentioned : 


6, which is 12i- inches, (one inch more than 


1st. Form of good proportions; 18^, 34, 


in Diagram No. 1, and one inch greater 


27, llA, 23, 20J, 32, 3(3, 31. 


than the distance given l>y the Ruler from 


2d. Stooping form; 18^, 34, 27, 12^, 


2 to 5). Dot on line C, half the distance 


23, 20i, 32, 30, 31. 


hetween 5 and 6, which is half an inch. 


3d. Extra erect form ; 18i, 34, 27, lOi, 


At the top of line A, mark in half an inch. 


23, 20A, 32, 36, 31. 


as sho^vn from O to 7, rounding the Lack 


It will l)e ol)served that all the measures 


seam slightly. Draw line F fi-om the dot. 


are precisely the same, except the first half 


l)et\\'een o and 6, to 7 (instead of 0, as in 


of the l)lade measure, or that portion 


Diagram No. 1), and line E from 9, 


which applies from the centi'e of the hack 


tlirough the dot between 5 and li, to 8, 


to the fi'ont of the scye. On ])late 2, I 


and continue the lilade measure trom 6 to 


have prepared Diagram No. o l»y the 


8, 23 inches, and draw line G from 8 to 7, 


second measure, whicli applies to the 


and form the shoulder and neck gorge, as 




directed in Diagram No. 1. 


Si©©f»Ssag Wewm,.^ 


It will be noticed that half the vai-ia- 




tions between the Ruler and the first-half 


Draw l)ase line A. From to 1 and 2, 


<)f the blade measure, at ."> and 6, is used. 


are 27 on Divisions A and B. 


which carries line E, at cS, for^\^•u■d, 


From to 3, is half of the In-east 


and the other half at top of the back. 


measure. Di-aw lines B, C and D, at right 


moving the back seam at top forward and 


angles with line A. 


raising it half an inch. Thus lengthening 


From 1 to 4, on line B, is 36 on Divi- 


the back, shortening the shoulder, and 


sion G. 


moving shoxilder ])oiiit and point of seye 


From 2 to 5, on line C, is 36 on Divi- 


forward. Changes necessary for a Stooping 


sion n. 


Figure. 1 


From 3 to 9, on line D, is 31 on Divi- 


Just the opposite of the above will bf 


sion F. 


found in Diagram No. 6, whieh is Drafted 



by tlie tliiid iiieusuiv aliove, ami a])plies 
to the 

Is'lss ls©©i I'tss* 

Dra-w l)ase line A. From O to 1 and :i, 
are 27, on Divisions A and B. 

From O to 3, is half tlie 1 )reast measure. 
Draw lines B, C and D, at riiilit angles 
with line A. 

From 1 to 4, is 8G on Division G. 

From •_* to ."■), is ;>(; on Division H. 

From n to !), is ;U on Division F. 

Ap2)ly the first half <if the Idade 
measure from '2 to (i, whieli is l(»i inches, 
(one inch less than the (juantitv uiven liv 
the Ruler from i' to .">.) Dot on line C, 
lialf the distance l)etween ."> and (1, \vhieh 
is lialf an incli. Drop the to]) of the back 
half an inch, and mark out half nn incli 
(as shown) from O to 7, and hollow the 
I tack seam slightly. Draw line F from 
the dot, betAveen 5 and G, to 7, instead of 
O, and line E from U, throuo'h the dot, 
between :> and ('., tt) 8. Continue the 
blade measure from (J to <s, l'."> inches. 
Draw line G, and form shoulder and neck 
gorge, as already directed. Thus length, 
ening the shoulder, moving the shoulder 



point and scye fui'tlier back, and shortening 
the liack. Changes requisite for the Extra 
Erect Figure. 

During my jtractice at the Cutting 
Counter, I have failed to discovei- the 
necessity for drawing in the liottom of the 
side seam in order to tit a stoojting form, 
or extending it out to tit an extra erect 
figure. All the chano;es in Draftinu', 
necessary to tit either of the two foi'nis 
designated, nmst be made al)Ove line^C. 
Diagi'am 7, is a combination of Diaoram 
No. 1, on Plate 1, and Diagi'ams No. 5 and 
6, on Plate 2, confoiniing to the three 
measures recorded above, and sliowing 
the changes jtroduced by a variation in the 
tirst-half of the blade measure (or the 
distance from the centi'e of back to the 
front of scye). No. 1, for the well-]»ro])or- 
tioned form. No. 5, for the stooping 
figure, has the shouldei- point forward and 
sliort, and the liack lengthened and diawn 
in at the toj). No. 0, for the extra erect, 
with the shoulder extended back and 
lengthened, tlie back shortened, and the 
Ijack seam holloAVed slightly from the tojj. 
The position of the bat'k and side body at 
the waist remainino- in all cases the same. 



Plate, 3 




LTXTTTTCUM'S SYSTEMS. 



15 



This is a fault foxiud in iaany Coat.s, aud 
can l)e attrilmted to more tliaii one cause; 
l)ut, in a great niajorit}' of oases, tliey are 
created by tlie ui)jier part of tlie Coat being- 
Drafted too open, (see Diagram No. 9, on 
Plate ?,.) When Drafting after tlie back is 
cut, j)lace the fingers on the side seam of 
back, wliere it intersects hne C, and move 
the top in until the distance between O O 
(along the dotted line) is about the same as 
the measure calls tor 1)et\veen B B, from 
the centre of baek to the ])oint of seye. 

It is not important that it be precisely 
the same, half an inch either way will not 
injure the Coat ; but should the points O O 
be too close together, or less than between 
B B, the Coat will lie apt to swing away 
from the waist, and one inch or more too 
long Avill, when strained together on the 
form, cause unsightly Avrinkles across the 
upper part of the side body. 



There is no reason Avhy a Coat should be 
Drafted by one system, and a Vest by 



another entirely difterent; and I have 
adapted my Divisions for Drafting Vests 
in precisely the same mannei', jiroducing 
the same form to fit the customer as 
required in the Coat. 

Turn to Plate 4, Diagram No. 11. Draw 
base line A. 

From O to 1 and 2, are '27 on Divisions A 
and B. 

From O to 8, is half of breast measure, 
18 inches. Draw lines B, C and D. 

From 1 to -i, is 3fi on Division J. 

From 2 to 5, is 8C> on Division H. 

From .J to 0, is Hi] on Division I, (bv 
moving the Ruler forward as directed for 
Diagram No. 1.) 

From ;> to 7, is SI on Division F from ^ J. 
Draw line E from 7 to 8 through 5, and line 
F from ~) to O. Hold the tape at 8, and 
sweep curve H from 7. Apply the waist 
measure from 3 on line D, and curve H. Half 
of the waist, 15i inches, and in all cases, add 
two inches to half the waist measure, 
making it 1 7A, instead of 15i inches, and 
form the front of Vest, from 0, to suit the 
form of the customer. I will not stipulate 
the precise position of the seam under the 
arm, but suggest that the back l)e cut full 
one-fourth of the breast and waist in width. 



Cut the liack and lay line F on line G, as 
ilhvetcd in Di-afting Coats, and torni the 
shoulder and the remainder of the Vest, as 
shown in tlie Diagram. 

When the Idade measuve varies from the 
\vell-]iri>])orti(>ne<l form, and indicates tlie 
stopping or extra eveet iigure, apjdy the 
ineasui'es in the same manner as directed 
in Diagrams No. ."> and (>, on Plate :?, (except 
that it is not necessary to add anything to 
the l)lade measure at 8, as directed in 
Drafting Coats.) 

Diao-ram No. 1-2, on Plate 4, is a section 
of Diagram No. 11, >h()wing the form of a 
loAV cut Vest. After the customer has 
been measurcil for a Coat, the only addi- 
tional measure needed for a Vest is for the 
opening in tront, full length, and tlie 
hoHow part of the ^\■aist at the hi])S. 



S®,©M ©©©lis 

Turn to Diagram No. 13, on plate 4. 
Draw l)ase line A. From O to 1 and 2, 
mark 27 on Divisit)ns I) and E, starting 
from the end of liuler, marketl thus %. 

Fi-om O to 3, is half of the breast 
measui'e. Diaw lines B, C and D. 



From 1 to 4, is 3() on Division G. 

From •_' to .5, is .■>() on Division II. 

From 5 to 0, is 3(') on Division. I (the last 
three Divisions being applied as directed 
for Diagram No. 1.) 

From 3 to 7, is 31 on Division F, 

from the end of the Ruler, marked thus 

§. Apply the blade measure as already 

directed in Diagram No. 1, IH. :?3, adding 

one-quarter to | of an inch. Draw line E 

from 7, through 5 to 8, and Line F, from 

5 to O. Add from one to one and a 

half inches at the bottom of back (as 

shown in the Diagram, fi'om tlie small 

part of the waist to tlie bottom.) From 

8 to 9, is 27 on Division C. Draw line 

for the pitch of neck. Form and cut 

the l>ac-k, and place O at 8, with line F i 

resting on line G, and form the shoulder, 

neck, gorge and scve. For a doidile i 

I 
breasted Sack, draw line PI, fi'om (>, at I 

riofht anarles from line C, and add for the 

fi'ont, according to the style and taste. 

Draft the sleeve in the same manner and 

position, as directed for Diagram No. 1. 

When the blade measure indicates a change 

in the form of the customer, aj)pl}" them in 

the same manner as directed for Diagrams 

5 and (>, and the shape necessary to fit the 



Plate, 4 




L I N T H I C U M ' S SYS T K MS. 



17 



stoopino- or erect tigure, will l)e ])r(Mluced 
in the Draft. 



!'ll«i©iS®mi 






It is iiuite a c-oiunmii pi-aetice among 
Tailors to take tlie breast and waist 
measure over a Coat ^\ lien measuring for 
an Over-Sack, or Surtout, whether tlie 
Coat measured over is thick or thin. It is 
a l)ad hal.It, as the measures so obtained 
are very uncertain, for it is preferable to 
take a neat measure over the Vest, and 
make the necessary additions. The measure 
already taken, ISA, ;!4, 27, HA, ■2:\, I'OA, 
0-2, .•5(i, ;U, should be increased thus: ISA, 
34, 2SA, !•_', lUi, 21, :\:l, .'JS, :3;'.,foran Over- 
Coat intended to lie wni'u o\cr (xarmeiits 
of medium thickness. AVhen the Coat is 
re{[uired k>ose, or for wear o\'er \cry thick 
under Garments, a<]d three inches to the 
breast and waist measure, and in the same 
proportions, to the shoulder and lilade 
measure. Now let us proceed to Draft Over- 
Sack from the al>ove t'ularged measui'e, 
as sliown in Diagram No. Id, on Plate .'{. 

Draw base liue A A. From ( ) to 1 and 



'2, are 2SA on Divisions D and E, com- 
mencing at end of Ruler, marked tlius ^. 

P'rom O to M, is 11) inches (half of breast). 
Draw lin<-s B, C and D. 

From 1 to 4, is oS on Division G. 

From 2 to ."), is 8S on Division H. 

From .-) to ('), is .'>S on Division I. 

Fiom ;) to 7, is ;;."> on Divisc>nF, starting 
from end of Ruler, marked thus sj. A})ply 
the blade measure from 2 to ~), \2, and 
contiiuie the same up line E, from 5 to s. 
Draw line E, from 7 through •> to S, and 
line F from .") to (_), and line (t from s to O. 

From S to '.', is -iSi- on Division C, 
starting from vnd of Rider, marked thus §. 

Fro:n line A, at Id, add two inches for 
sjiriiig, and form and cut the back. Place 
O at S, with line F re-ting on line (i, and 
form shoulder, neck gorge and scye. Di-aw 

line II iVoHi <'), at right angles with line C, 
and form the tVont of Coat, according to 
taste or the pre\ailing style. When tlie 
customer is of extra erect or stooj)ing 
tio-ure, the blatle measure will in<licate the 
necessary change, and nuist be applied in 
[)recisel\' the same manner as ah'eaily 
exi»laint'(I for Diagrams .") and (">, on Plate i', 
except from ') to S, to \vhich add thiee- 
fourths of an inch instead of one-fourth or 



18 ■ LTNTHICUM 


'S SYSTEMS. 


thi'ee-eiglitlis, as directed fov I'nder-Coats 


From 5 to 6, is one-sixth. 


Measure the seye with eare, and Draft tlie 


Form the lines of the back, as seen in 


sleeve in tlu' same niaiiuer as for Diagram, 


the Diagram. To Draft the fore-part and 


No. 1. 


Ca])e, draw line A A, as in Diagram No. 


1 


15, Plate ,"), and line E, at right angles i 
with line A. 


1 


fie Bmff'ltmi ®-r®i^C'#B-| 


From to !>, is one-sixteenth. 


Is Di-afted liy tlie enlarged Fmek Coat 


From i) to 1, is one-fourth. 


measure, as already explained, and in the 


From 1 to 2, is one-foui'th. 


same manner as the Froek Coat deserilied 


From -J to ;',, is one-fourth. 


in Diagran\ No. 1, Plate 1. 


From O to '), is cme-twelfth. 




From 1 to 4, is one-t^velfth. Draw line 
E, at right angles with line E. 




1 

IsTt'Satii ®i Cap® S©®'!* 


From -2 to (), is one-third. 
From (') to 7, is one-half. Draw line J, 
at right angles with line E. 


The Diagrams for Drafting the al)Ove 


From 7 to 8, is one-thiid. Draw line D 


st\le of Coat are designed liy thirds and 


from 2 through S, and line C from 4 

1 


fourtlis of the l)reast measure (taken over 


through .">. Form lurve F, neck gorge and 


the \'est). 


line H, for front of Cape, Avhieh is Drafted 


To Di'aft baek, as dehneated in Diagram 


with the foi'e-]iart, as shown in the 


No. U, on Plate .-). Draw l.ase line A A. 


Diagram. After applying tlie measure for 


From to 1, is one-foiu'th. 


the length of Cape, swee}) line G from 4. i 


From 1 to •_*, is two-thirds. Draw lines 


The measiu'es neeessary for the Cape Coat 


B, C and I). 


are: first, length from the socket-bone; 


From O to 4, on line D, is one-sixth. 


second, from same place, directly over the 


1 Fi'om i to 7, is three-fourtlis of an ineh. 


shoulder, and down the arm to the knuckles 


From 1 to ."'>, is one-half. 


(foi- length of Cajjc); third, the size of the 


From •_* to .'), is twothiids. 


neck ovt-r the Under Coat collar, and the 


_ „ . 






Plate, 5 




r. 1 X T IT 1 (' I" M 'S P Y S T EMS. 



I'J 



l)iv:ist measure. In most all eases, the 
Inverness Coat is made without sleeves, 
l>ut when designed ehietly t'oi' traveling 
pur])Oses, where eontinuuiis e.\})osure to 
cold is antieipated, sleeves add very 
materiallv to tlie eomt'ort of the (Tarment. 
Accordingly, I have designed a sleeve, as 
shown l)y Diagram No. S, on Plate 2, 
which will prove a valuaMe accompaui- 
nuMit to the above style of Coat. 



Kn, 



f# 



©i©®T®4 



First, draw l>ase line A. From O to 1, 
is oiiedialf. 

From 1 to -J, is one-twelfth. Draw lines 
B and C. 

Fi'om '2 to ?>, is two-thirds. 

From ;') to 4, is one-fourth. Draw line 
D from 4 to (J. Form the top of sleeve, 
as delineated in the Diagram, adding one- 
twelfth at F from line I), to foi-m the round 
part of the sleeve. Apj)ly the measure to 
ol)tain the correct length of Sleeve, and 
make the width of bottom aliout '.* inches. 
As it is rather an unconmion thing to ])ut 
Sleeves in Inverness Coats, the following 
Directions for Sewing in the Sleeve may 



prove accei)tal)le: — O, the stai-tiug point 
of the Sleeve, joins to the fore-part on the 
top of shoulder O at the seam, and the 
round pai't of tlie sleeve F sews to curved 
line F on the fore-part. The hollow, or flat 
part of the Sleeve, joins to the Ca])e and 
hack, down to <;, hi'inging together, when 
completed, !S on the fore-])art, 4 on the 
Sleeve, and (> on the liat-k. 



Very mu;-h has ])een said and written 
u])on the relative merits of Divisi(nial and 
Exact Measurement Systems. Both have 
zea!i)us adxocates among the intelligent 
portion of the trade, and l;oth are valuaMe. 
I believe all thinkers on the subject 
\vill agree, that to the moilerately ex])eri- 
enced Cutte'.', of average ability, the 
Divisional System is the best. The 
nundier of measures are less, more siuqde 
and easih taken. The Cutter is less liable to 
commit errcn-s in maniimlating them than 
he is in the E.xact Measurement process 
(which re([uires greater skill and nntth 
practice in measru'ing), while to an expert, 
till' latter System is preferable. I believe 



20 



L I N T H I C U M ' S SYS T K M S . 



the tlit'ury oorrec-t, aud wlieii iDtelligeutly 
jn-acticed, that it overt-omes olgectionaMe 
features iu Divisional Systems, ami pro- 
(Im-es 1 tetter tittiiig- and more eomtbrtalde 
(iarments to the weaier. Hoav tai' a 
Cutter must he advanced in his profession 
liefore he can safely he deemed an expert, 
I will not i)i"etend to state, as opinions are 
sure to differ widely reu'arding the matter, 
and my views may not he ajjpreciated. One 
thing is certain, a gi'eat deal dejtends u])on 
the and)itit)n and apjtlication of the Cutter, 
in the settlini>' of the ouestion individually. 
I will take the lilierty of adnionishing my 
readers to well and carefully jiractiee the 
taking of measures designed to he directly 
ap])lied to cloth as taken on the hody, for 
everv inacciiracy w ill apjx-ar in the Garment 
when completed. In ])ul>lishing the accom- 
panying Exact Measurement 8ystem, I 
believe I am otl'ering to the Trade the best 
and most ])ractical method of the kind ever 
invented. It owes its origin entirely to 
myself, and is simple in jirinciiile and 
application. Ithaslteen, and is now" lieing 
used in my Fittli Avenue Establishment, 
which has afforded ample oj)portiuiity for 
thoroughly testing its merits, and the result 
has been most satisfactory. Hence, I offei' 



it to the Trade, feeling confident that it will 
sujiply a ■want long felt, in giving them a 
method for fitting equally Avell forms of 
correct ])ro])ortions and ill-shajied figures. 



First, take the full length of wai.st and 
skirt, and then length ot sleeve, from the 
centre of the l>ack, in the usual way, over 
a Coat. (Tui'u to Plate 8, Figure or 
Diagram No. 2;5.) Remove the Coat, and 
mark at the side of the neck on the Vest, 
as shown on the Figure at A, the exact 
location you desire the shoulder ]ioint 
distant from the socketdione, for width 
of back. In the medium sizes, two and 
three-(juarters to three inches. (The 
distance in sizes I'anging fi'om ;-54: to 45 
inches, l)reast measure will l)e from I'i to 
'.)} inches). See that the seam of the Vest 
back is in the centi'e of the body, and the 
Vest drawn in moderately close at the 
waist by the strajt and Imckle. Now 
])lace the Plumli line in position, directly 
in front of the shoulder (as represented 
on the fiii'ure.) Bv drawing the line over 



the sliouldcr, and slippiiii;- it uji and down 
a few times, tlie weiiilit attached to the 
line will draw it to the de.sired place in 
front of the arm. Ee(piest your customer 
to remain <piiet until th'/ \vei^-ht is still, 
then mark the Vest perj)endii ular -with 
the line at B, and at the hollow of waist 
at C. Cross this latter mark just over the 
hi]) in the most hollo\v part of the waist. 
Lay aside the Plumh line and j)roceed 
with the inch tajie, to take the following- 
measures vefy carefidhj, kee])ing the cus- 
tomer iu as near the same position as 
possible : 

From socketdjone to the nnu'k at the 
side of the neck A, say H inches. Then 
place end of the tajie at the mark A, 
and measure down in front of the aim, 
and witli the lingers of the right hand jilaced 
luider the arm, ascertain the collect depth 
of scye, say 9i inches, and continue the 
measure to the mark at the liolhcw of the 
Avaist C, say IS inches. 

From the same point, A, draw the 
measure back of the arm in as straight a 
line as possible, over the shoulder V)lade, 
down to C, at waist (represented on the 
Figure by the dotted line), say IIU inches. 
Place the end of the tape in the centre of 



the biii-k, opposite the liottom of the scye, 
and measure forward to the front of the 
scye (the mark at B), say 11 A inches, and 
contiiHie the measure straight across the 
breast to tlu^ centre of the l)ody (or as 
near it as can be determined by the eye), 
at D, say 19 inches. Place the end of the 
ta}>e in the centre of the back at the 
hollow ]iart of the waist, and measure 
f >rward to the mark at C, say 8 inches, 
and continue forward to the centre of the 
body at K, say HI inches. These last {\<o 
measures must l>e taken easy. The 
<listaiice fi'om the centre of the liack 
through B to 1), should be about one inch 
greater than half the breast measure, when 
taken around the liody. This is given as 
a rule, that the o]»erator may be guarded 
against taking them too tight. It wouhl 
be better, ])robably, to take the breast 
and waist measur.e around the body before 
measuring from the centre of the liack to 
the front, and taxing the mind with the 
distance, A\hich, say is ."ii; inches Itreast, 
and '.VI waist. Half the breast would be 
l<s inches; while I give tlu' distance as 19 
from theljack seam, through B to I). The 
measure as abo\e taken will read lH. -■i-b 
2(»i, -.Vl^W, 9i, is, l;»J., lU, 19. s. K;, ;!i;, :!:2. 



I.l X'I'll U'lMS S VSTEM^;. 



BY THE. EXACT MEASUREMENT SYSTEM. 

s:ee djagbam ivo. le, on fixate e. 

The measures are ajiplietl ti) tlie Draft 
in precisely the same mauner as taken on the 
IhhIv. First, draw line A A, (wliieli repre- 
sents the Phiml> line in the Draft.) From 
() to 1, is '.)i iiK-lies. as taken on the Ixxly, 
whiih (livideinto tour eijual ]>arts as shown, 
and the lower t'onrtli divide into two 
parts, as in the Diagram at 1."). From O 
to -2, is IS inrhes, (as taken troni A to C 
on rlie l)od\'.) From i*, measure up in the 
direetiou of the top of the haek. I'.U inches^ 
(as taken from A, liack of the aim to C, at 
wai^t.) Form the sweep •"> from '2. as 
shown in tlie Diagram. Measui'e l)ack from 
I in a straisi'ht line. Hi inches, (^Idade 
measure,) and in a like nnmner from 2, 
liaok 8 inches. Form sweep !> from 1, 
and sweep 7 ti'om 2. Place the tape or a 
straio-ht etlge to touch sw eeps (1 and 7, as 
sliown liy the dotted line, and mark where 
it intersects line A. at the lower O, and 
from this point, sweep lines r\ 4, B, C, and 
the line between O and lo. Draw line D, 



for back seam through the intersection of 
sweeps 4 and ('■>, to a jioint a half or three- 
fourths of an inch back of sweep 7, to nud'Ce 
allo\vance for what will l^e taken out 
between the back and side body, at the 
hollow j)art of the Avaist, as represented in 
the Diagram. Measure forward fr<)m line 
D, on sweep o, three inches for width of 
back at the top, as shown at S. Scpiare it 
with line D. Dro]i the centre of the back 
aliout half an inch, in order to form the 
curve of the neck ; l)ut in no case change 
the point hx-ated at 8. ]\lark length of 
waist I'.l inches, and form the back to .suit 
the taste or tashion. Continue lines 4 and 
o forwai-d, at right angles with line A. 
Apply the blade measure as taken on the 
body from swi'ej) thi'ough 1, (^IH inches) 
forward to li>, (10 inches,) and waist 
measure from sweep 7 through 2, ( 8 inches) 
forward to 9, (l(i inches.) Divide the 
s])ace between •_' and 0, and between 1 and 
10. with accuracy, into equal parts, and 
dra\v line E to 18, which will, in all cases, 
give the correct pitch of the shoulder point. 
Apj)ly half of the breast measure fi-om 
sweep (>, along line 4, 18 inches, and adil 
2^ inches for front of Coat, If the shoulder 
seam is funned as shown in the Diagram, 



i*Uire, a 





LIN 'I'll iCUM'S SYSTK.MS. 



from 1.3 to 14, on the f()iv-i>;ut, and-8-to 16 
oil tlie hack, })ni!it 14 tdUfliiiiii- the line C, 
anil point Id lit'inn' raised aliovc lint' B, a 
half or tliivf-fonrtlis of an inrli, the Coat 
will Ht the shoulders \vith<nit wadding. 
When a s([uare or high shoulder is dfsirrd, 
raise ])oint 14 alio\e line (', a half to one 
iiieli, and add in making an e([uivalent 
ill wadding. It is desiraMc that this lie 
done when the shoulders of the enstonier 
are iiieliiuMl to drooj). In fact, it is the 
duty of the Cutter to detect and improve 
all the im])erfeetions (if his caistoniers. In 
this lies till' true art of his ealling. 

. Form the remaining lines of the fore-])art 
as <lelineated in the Diagram, and before 
cutting it, ))lace a piece of pajiei' large 
enough for (nit-line of sleeve luider lln' 
Draft, in the position shown, and oliserve 
tlie 

First, measure with care the scye,) say 
Kl inches, ) and from 11 to li>, on line B, 
mark half of the scye measure, (say s inches, ) 
and form the top sleeve. Before doing so, 
let me remark that the round for the ti>]) of 



the iip[)er sleeve must extend as fai- alxjve 
line B, as the Ijack is drawn at ir, ; and if 
the ])oint 14 has l)een raised alx.ve line C, 
on the fore-part, to increase the height of 
the shoulder, an additional length will In- 
required to the to], sleeve, equal to the 
raise of point 14, al.ove line C. 

The effect of many finely cut shoulders 
are spoiled l.y the shortness of tlie top 
sleeve, which should in all cases he raised 
or increased in length, eijual to tlie addi- 
tion in the Draft of the foi-e-part foi- pro- 
ducing s(pmre shoulders. By ol , serving 
and ])racticing the al)o\e, the uiiNightly 
dragging ahout tlie shoulders, caused ]>\ 
a short toj) sleeve, -will he (.h\iated. 
Extend the front seam of the sleeve forward 
of line A, at l.j, as tar as 1.5 is aliove line 
4, and conqdete the Di'aft for sleeve, as 
shown ill Diagram, luiiining the front seam 
at the hand, as tar forward of line A as it is 
at 1."). 



Wm W^MiiMg Slls^. 



8ES JDIAGJRA3I3 3 tinrl 4, ON JPJLAT^ 3, 



AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS GIVEN. 



BY THE EXACT MEASUREMENT SYSTEM. 

The same ineasui'es are taken in int'cistly 
the -;niu' manner and ci'dev as lor Hcdy 
(."oats. l)ia\\ liast' line A. 

From () to 1, is '.».!, inelies (as taken on 
tile lio(ly). which divide into t'oui' e([nal 
])arts, as direeteil tor Diagram Ko. lO. 

Fiom O to :.*, is IN inehes (^as takt'n on 
the liody from .V to C\ 

I'rom '2, nlea^•nle u|i in the direction of 
the to]i ot tile 1 ;uk. I'.'J, inelies (as taken 
on tlu' hod\- iVom A at >ide of iutl<, hack 
of the aim to (', at \vai>t\ and foini 
>\\ce|i :\. I'or the to|) ot' l>ai-k from i'. 
Diaw lines B. ('. 1) antl 11, at right angles 
with line A. Sweep line K for pitch of 
the neck, from the hottom of Coat line A. 

Measure liack tVom 1 on line (_', 1 1 A inches, 
to 4, and draw line (i at right angles with 
line C. Continne line (i nJ>^vard as high as 
sweej) -"i. Measure forward from line (t 
on swce|) :>, three inches, ami form the toj> 
of liack. Continue lines C and D forward. 
A]i]d_\ the measures from 4 through 1 
(^11. I inches), forward to 5 (19 inehes), and 



place 8 on the inch tape at i', ami measure 
forward of line A on line C to tl, (1(> 
inches). l)i\ide the space lu'tween 1 and 
."), and l' and ('>, into two ecinal ])arts. and 
draw line F to 7, for locating the front 
shoulder point. Apply half the breast 
measnre from 4, adding two and a half 
inches, and form the lines of the Coat, as 
in Diagram No. 17. N\'ln'n e.xtra stpiare 
shoulders are desired, see directions tor 
Diagram Ko. IC). Form the sleeve in the 
san;e nnniner as directed for Diaiiraui IS. 



BY THE EXACT MEASUREMENT SYSTEM. 

Use same measure as taki'U for Ixuly 
Coat, as follows (neat measure): o, iU, 18, 
Id.V, 11. I, li>, >, !('., ;u;, oi', enlarged to 

."H. l"i- 1'^. l-'i- 1-. -". ^i' I"' '5^' '^■^■ 
The third and t'ouith measure need not 

lie ehan^-ed, as the}' are Imth taken from 

the side of the neek to the hollow of the 

waist, above the hip, as balance measures, 

and have no reference to size or lenizth. 



Plate, 7 




L I N T H I C TJ M ' S S ^' S T V. M S . 



25 



BY THE EXACT MEASUREMENT SYSTEM. 

Use the enlarged measure, same as for 
Surtouts, ami follow the direetious for 
^Diagram No. 17, on Plate 0. 



Plsit'M©si im BtSifiiffig 



«s 



m^ 



Use the measure already taken, which 
reads -24, 42, 32, 30, aO, 17, 17. First, 
draw line O O. 

Fiom () to 1, is 24 inelies (i'rom hip to 
knee). 

From O to 2, is 42 inches (full length). 

From 2 to 3, is 32 inches, (length of 
inside seam). Draw lines A, B and C, at 
right angles with line O (.). 

From 3 to 4, is one-fourth (of hij) 
measure). 

From 4 to 5, is one-fourth ; antl from 5 
to 6, one-eighth. Draw front balance line 
D carefully, at right angles with line A. 

Fi'om 7 to 8, is three inches (in all cases, 
large or small). 

From 8 to 9, is one inch. 



From to '10, is seven inches. Dra^ 
line E from 8 to 0, and line F tVoni s 
through 5 to 11, and line G from 10 to 
within half an inch of line O, at 3. 

From n to 12, is one-fourth of the 
wai>t measure. Foi'ni the hij), trom 12 to 
3, and the inside seam, from the ankle to 9. 

When cutting for a small waisted 
customer, droj) the front a little at 11, and 
raise it for a large coi-pulent man. Xow 
comes one of the most important points in 
Trowsei's cutting, "The Dress." Ui)on 
this, as upon every other STihject, there 
are many conflicting opinions. Mine, of 
course, to me, .seem reasoualile. The 
Sack \\hich contains the testicles and the 
penis, is suspended in the centre of the 
l)od\", lielow the alidonien; the latter 
measuring at least lA inches at the root, 
where it joins on to the liody, and the 
foi-nier ri'(pnring consideralile space in 
width just below the crotch, and it is 
necessary that jn'ovisions be made in order 
to secure a good clean tit. If Trowsers 
that are intended to tit at all close, be cut 
without dress, and }daced on the body, the 
seam down the front must in consecpU'Uce 
be on one side of the penis, Avhich removes 
it from the centre at least three-fourths of 



.•Ill iiu'li. ami c-aiisfs a tisi'litness (111 tlu' (liTss tlie lueasuiv calls for a l)Ottt>iii 17 iuclies 
ami a t'uUiU'ss on tlif undivss side. I i)i"o- widt'. The top side is already eut seven 
vide a remedy foi- this iio-lv fault, l>v eutting iuehes, leaving l(t inches for the back, 
awav the undress side at least three-t'ourtlis I which is three inches greater than the front, 
of an inch (as represented l>v the dotted Place half of this, or one and a half inches, 
line), and addiiiu' the same ipiantity to ■ li.^weeu it and 1^'. and the other between 
the dress side. Or. in other words, cutting j li> and -JO, always adding for seams, 
the front seam three-tburtlis of an inch from -^lU'l^ '^'^^' "i'';'-"te at the knee, and form 
the centre, and leaviiiu' the width of the the remainder of the Draft, as delineated in 
dress side at i>. at least one inch and ;i half the Diagram. ( \\\ the Divisions used in 
oreater than the undress side. After the directions above, apply to the hiji 
forminu' the crotch, cut the front or top measure.) I have directed that the 
side, and prepare to form the back (^as distance lietween 7 and S, as shown in 
represented in Diaii'iam No. ll^V b\ con- Diagram No. is, be in all cases o inches, 
tinuinii- lines A, B and C. Sweeji the space S serves as a pivot from which to draw 
between ('. and IS from S. lines E and F, the latter ti.xing the front 
From ('. to IS, is one-eighth. 1 of Trowsers at 11, and will range back or 
From .') to I.-), is one-third, l^raw line f>rward in proportion to the size of the 
D from (i through lo. Apply the waist hip, as ti.xed between 4 and .'). In Diagram 
measutv tV>m 11 t' I J, and from 1 .'. to 14 i No. -JO, the distance between 4 and .5 is 
(half of waist, lo inches), add -iillicient greater than in Diai.;ram No. IS, in 
i 1 allow f >r seams and the \' taken out consequence i>f the hip measure being- 
over the hi[>. -^^pr'^ '''^' '''1' "'<^";i^iiit" larger, and line F being drawn from S 
iVom o to l(i. anil fr.>m .-> to 1 7 ( IS inches.') (which is three inches inside of centre 
Apply the measure ti> ascertain the size of | balance line at the bottom) through .'>, thus 
the bottom. Half the increase in the placing the top of the line more fnward. 
w'l.lth of the back, over the front, must and providing space for the ctn-pnlent or 
be added to each side ol' the front, at the , large bellied man. When very large, add 
bottom (fc.inst.anceY In the present Draft, ! a half to one inch round to the front, as 



Plate, 8 



Diao:»\a^j 






ivpivsenteil; and in otliei' ivspect-;, a})])!}- i blade, lU, 28 ; and tliree waist measures, 



tlie measures and form the Ti'owsers as 
directed for Diaiirams Nos. IS and 19. 



imttiMg ¥§its. 



A very siraj)le and etfeetive })lan for 
Cutting Vests l)y a Coat pattern, is sLdavu 
in Diagram No. 21, on Plate S. Lay the 
Coat pattern together on a sheet of jiaper, 
the back touching the side body at the 
blade and waist, and the side body touching 
the ture-j)art under the ai'ni. Mai'k around 
it. (represented by the solid lines). A])ply 
the measure to ascertain the lengths, and 
foi-m the Vest as shown by the dotted 
lines. Fiu'ther eonunents ai'e unnecessary, 
as a glance at the Diagram will convince 
the intelligent reader of its practicabilit)'. 

Diagram No. 22, on Plate s, Drafte<l 
by the Divisional System, is introduced 
to illustrate the chauges produced by a 
variation in the waist measure, ^\•hen 
breast, shoulder and blade measure remain 
unchanged. 

The measures used in jiroducing the 
Diagram are :' breast, 'M ; shoulder, 27 ; and 



30, 88 and 8(5. 



yeiim 



Mim^ 



^^^i 



On Plate 1>, I have ])repared Diagrams 
Nos. 24, 2.'), 2(), 27, and 28, in illustration 
of my mode of Collar Cutting. The 
theory is so well shown by the Diagrams, 
that no conuueiit is necessarv. I will, 
therefore, ])roceed to describe them. 
After the shoulder and neck goroe have 
been tVirmed, ascertain the ])oint t'> which 
the lirer.st is desii-ed to roll; then mea--ure 
in, from the most hollow part of the neck 
gorge at O, the am.iunt of the stand of 
colhir at that point, which will depend 
materiallv upon the formation of the neek. 
In a gorge formed similai' to those in the 
l)resent work, three-fourths of an inch at () 
will lie aliout correct. If the neck "-orge lie 
cut dee])er, more will lie necessary, and less, 
if it lie cut more straight. After mai'king 
the stand of eollar at (), draw line A (as 
shown in the Diagrams) fiom the point 
where the breast is desired to idll, thr<iugh 
the niaik in front of (). Form the jioints of 
collar as desired at B, and after tinding 



the correct leiigtli of the collar, by 
iiieasuring the neck o-oroe ami the top of 
liack, draw liiicC to intersect line A, at D. 
l'\n-in the curve line tor the crease row 
iVom E to O. and athl the desired stand 
of collar lu'low E, and t'oriii the hottoni 
or sew on side, liU'Vidino- it to fit the neck 
toi-ward of line A. Have the liottom edge 
of the collar stretched a little from O to 2, 
and the ciease row between O and 3, 
drawn in and well ])ressed. Thus a collar 
will be obtained that will contbrni to all 
Styles of roll, whether it be high, medium 
or low. 

In Drafting Vests, a half inch in front of 
() will be sutficient for tlu' stand of ddlar. 



sliowini"' the lines, ttc, used for Drafting 
the Sleeve. 

DiAGRA^i Xo. o, is a Draft for a Frock 
Coat Skirt. 

Diagram No. 4, is a Draft for Dress and 
Morning' Coat Skirts. 



Dimm; AM No. 1, is a Di'att for a firm of 
o-ood ]iro]iortions, measuring •"■•i breast, 
■JT >houlder, .'U waist, antl ll.\. l>:! blade. 

DiAi.uAM No. •_', is a Section of No. 1, 



Diagi;a:m No. o, is a Draft for the 
Stooping; or Round Shouldered Form, and 
is drawn bv the sanu^ meastrre used in No. 
1, I'.xcept the blade measure, which is 1-Ji, 
L'.-., insteail of 11 A, I'o. 

Diagram No. (i, is a Draft for the Extra 
Erect Form, and is drawn by the same 
measure us.mI in No. 1, except the blade 
m'a-ur>\ whirh is loi. ■2:). instead of ll.l, 
•2:\. 

DiAiiKAM Nil. 7, is a Draft showing the 
imp maiit Points of Nos. 1. -"i and I'l 
toi^'ether. all the measures used in pro- 
dnciiiu,' It being the >ame. except the tii'st 
half of the blade measure (applied tVom 
the centre of the back to the front <if the 
scye). 

DiAiiKAM Xo. S, is a Draft of a Sleeve for 
the Invi-ruess i^ir Caj)e Coat. 



w 



Di.\gra:\[ No. 11, is a Draft showing tlu; 
Top of the Back, drawn forward until 
(lie distance between () O is tlie same 
as l)etween B B. (See Dtvcripfio)!.) 

T)iaora:\i No. in, is a Draft of Over- 
Sack, di'awn liy .".S In'east, ;'..". waist, 28i 
slioulder, and li*|, 24^ T)la(le, and designed 
to fit a customer measuring .'!(i over the 
Vest. 



DiAOKAM No. 11, is a Draft of Doul.le 
Breasted ^■est, of good pidpurtions, drawn 
by 86 breast, 81 waist, 27 shoulder, and 
IH, 23 blade. 

Diagram No. 12, is a Draft fir Front of 
Full Dress Vest. 

Diagram No. 13, is a Draft of a Sincjle 
or Double Breasted Sack, drawn l)y 36 
breast, 31 waist, 27 shoulder, and 11^, 23 
1 )lade. 



Diagram No. IT), is Fi'ont and Cape of 
the Inverness or Cape Coat. Diagrams 14 
and 15, are drawn l)y thirds and fourtiis 
of 36 breast measure, and will be correct 
in size for a f)rni measuring 36 In-east 
measure over the Vest. 



Dia(;ham No. 1(;, is a Draft by Exact 
Measurement, in good proportion. (See 
I>escyipfi(»i and Mccniure.) 

Diagram No. 17, is a Draft for Sack 
Coat, by Plxact Measurement. (See 
DeHci-iptiou (tnd Measure.') 



Diagram No. 14, is Back of Inverness 
or Cape Coat. 



Diagram No. is, is a Draft for Front of 
Trowsers, di-awn by 'M\ liip and .'id waist 
measure. 

Diagram No. I'.l, is a complete Draft 
for Tro\vscrs, draw II tti .".li hip and .".n waist 
measure. 

Diagram No. 2o, is a Diaft of Front of 
Frowsers tor a Corpulent Person, show inu' 
necessary addition for bell\. 



DiACiJJAM No. "-'I. shows lldW to Cut a 

<;-oo(l Vest liy Coat Pattt^-ni. {/See iMserip- 

tioii.) 

UiAi.KAM No. -J-.), is a Diapjiui showing 
tlio Changes inddiurd liy a Variation in 
tile ^^'ai■^t Measure. {See Jh'fcrijifioii.) 

DiAoi'vAM No. "J.">, is a Profile View of 
Fio'iire, sho\\ iuu' liow tlie !Measuivs are 



taken foi' tlie New Plumb, Exact jMeasui-e- 
ment System. 



DiAGKAMS NOS. 1>4, L'.'i. I'Ci. "J 7. "2S. 

illusti'ate niv mode of Collar Cuttiu"'. 



Entered iu-cOrdiui; to Act of Congress, on the Otii tiny of May, 1S7: 

By W. O. LlSTHICl"M, 

in the Oflicc of the Lihraritm of Consrress at Washington. 



Plale,9 




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